Curriculum 2000-2015

Briefly

Simone is the only alpinist to have reached four 8000 metre peaks COMPLETELY during the winter season (that is setting off after the 21st December): Shisha Pangma (8.027 m), Makalu (8463 m), Gasherbrum II (8.035 m) and Nanga Parbat (8126 metri).

Helicopter pilot specialized in rescue in the Himalayas, in 2012 he achieved a long line rescue on Tengkangpoche over 6.400 m. He also practices parachuting and wingsuit skydiving.

He has received the “Pierre de Coubertin Fair Play Trophy” from UNESCO, the “David A.Sowles Award”, by the Secretary-General of the UN Kofi Annan and the Gold medal for courage (‘medaglia d’oro al valor civile’) by the Italian President for the extreme rescue operation undertaken on Lhotse’s west face (8516m) in Nepal, on his own, in the dark, with an extremely high risk of avalanche fall, and without the use of oxygen.

“Best of The Eplorersweb” for the best mountaineering venture and “Golden Piton” by the American Climbing magazine for his ascent of Gasherbum II. Author of five books. The latest is “In ginocchio sulle ali” (2014). His books have been translated into English, German, Spanish and Polish.

He has a degree with full marks and honours in the Science of Motor and sports activities.



Awards

 

 

2000 - 2016

2016

  • On the 16th February he makes the world’s first ever winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (Pakistan, 8126 meters) with Tamara Lunger, Alex Txicon e Alì Sadpara With this achievement he makes history by becoming the first alpinist in the world to have reached four 8000 meter peaks during the winter season.

2015

  • During winter he attempt the ascent of Manaslu (8163 m.) with Tamara Lunger, while acclimatizing they open a new route in Alpine style on the north side of Island Peak (6182 m.) and they do the first ascent of Kang Lemo Central (6100 m.)
  • He becomes heli VDS instructor.

2014

  • During winter he attempts the ascent of Nanga Parbat for the second time, due to bad weather conditions he and his team decide to return back home and posticipate the summit to a future third attempt.
  • He becomes heli VDS instructor.

2013

  • With Ueli Steck he organizes the ascent to Everest along the Hornbein route, never repeated after 1963 (Himalayas, Nepal 8848 meters). Due to an attack by a group of sherpas he is forced to interrupt the expedition.
  • On 19 May 2013 his helicopter piloted by M. Folini beat its own record from the previous year, making the highest ever helicopter mountain rescue and recovery of an injured climber at 7800 m.

2012

  • With Denis Urubko, he attempts the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (Himalaya, Pakistan 8125 meters). Due to the terrible weather conditions they are forced to interrupt the expedition which had lasted 51 days and had reached 6600 meters. .
  • During spring 2012 he tries the link up Everest-Lhotse for the second time, but he retreats due to the traffic on the ascent to the world’s highest mountain.
  • Together with Denis Urubko and Cory Richards he receives the prize for the “Best of The Explorersweb” for the best alpinistic performance in 2011, and for the winter ascent on Gasherbrum II he wins the American “Golden Piton”, a sort of USA Piolet D’or given by Climbing magazine.
  • His film Exposed to Dreams wins the International Film Festival OFF2013.

2011

  • On the 2nd February he makes the world’s first ever winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakoram, 8035 meters) with Denis Urubko and Cory Richards. With this achievement he makes history by becoming the first alpinist in the world to have reached three 8000 meter peaks during the winter season.
  • He is nominated for the Piolet D’Or Asia 2011.
  • He wins the Kolos prize in Poland.
  • He wins the alpinism prize Società Alpinisti Tridentini.

2010

  • He gets his commercial helicopter pilot’s license with authorization to operate in Nepal. 
  • He reaches the summit of Everest for the fourth time (Himalayas, 8848 meters) along the south face, it takes him forty eight hours up and back down.
  • In Stockholm he is named "Explorer of the Year 2009".
  • He is nominated for the Karl Unterkircher Award 2009. 
  • He receives the Eiger Award 2009.

2009

  • World’s first winter ascent of Makalu (Himalayas, 8462 meters) with Denis Urubko. It had been twenty nine years that great alpinists had tried this ascent. 
  • For this achievement he is nominated for the Piolet D’Or Asia 2009.
  • He wins the prize Dalla Longa.

2008

  • First ever ascent in alpine style of Beka Brakai Chhok (Karakorum, 6940 meters) in Pakistan, in forty three hours. Hervé Barmasse was with him.
  • For this performance he wins the Paolo Consiglio prize from the Academic Italian Alpine Club again.
  • He attempts the first winter ascent of the Broad Peak (Karakorum, 8047 meters). The climb is interrupted only two hundred metres from the summit.
  • He receives the Dalla Longa prize.

2007

  • Attempt of world’s first winter ascent of Broad Peak (Karakorum, 8047 meters). Reaches 7200 meters twice, in spite of a storm lasted a month.

2006

  • First solo traverse, from south to north on Everest (summit – base camp in four hours and thirty minutes).

2005

  • First winter ascent of Shisha Pangma (Himalayas, 8013 meters) along the Yugoslav route, achieving a historic performance.
  • He opens a new route on Batokshi Peak (Pakistan, 6050 meters).
  • He attempts the winter ascent of Cerro Torre (Andes, 3102 meters).

2004

  • He attempts the first winter ascent of the south face along the Figueras route on Shisha Pangma (Himalaya, 8013 meters). He does not reach the summit by only three hundred meters.
  • He makes the first ascent of the north face of Khali Himal, also known as Baruntse North (Nepal, 7066 meters).
  • Thanks to this exploit he wins the Russian Alpinism Championships - first westerner ever - and he receives the Paolo Consiglio prize from the Italian Academic Alpine Club.
  • He attempts the ascent of Annapurna (Himalaya, 8091 meters), interrupted one hundred meters from the summit.

2003

  • Ascent of Kilimanjaro (Kenya, 5895 meters). He opens a new route of 2100 meters on Nanga Parbat (Himalayas, Pakistan 8125 meters). Summit not reached. 
  • He makes the quick ascent of Broad Peak (Karakorum, 8047 meters) in twenty nine hours and Mt Helbrus (Caucasus, 5642 meters) in three hours and forty minutes.
  • In Paris he is awarded the Pierre de Coubertin International Fair Play trophy.

2002

  • Reaches the summit of Vinson (Antarctica, 4897 m). He reaches the summit of Everest for the second time (Himalayas, 8848 meters), up the north face. The descent takes him only 4 hours and thirty minutes.
  • He achieves the ascent of Cho Oyu in only eleven hours (Himalayas, 8201 meters).

2001

  • First winter ascent of Marble Wall (Tien Shan, 6400 meters) in alpine style without acclimatization and in only two days. By giving up his climb, he rescues, on his own and without oxygen, Tom Moores at 8000 meters on Lhotse’s west face.
  • The American Alpine Club confers on him the David A. Sowles Memorial Award.

2000

  • He reaches the summit of Everest (Himalayas, 8848 meters).