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News from 29.01.2007

Finally yesterday I had been able to climb till C2 and finish the most technical climb of Broad Peak. Yesterday I did everything alone because I send down Shaheen from C1 due the extreme cold he suffer during the night (for sure the coldest night we spend here -40° degree). I prefer he get immediately in BC, keep worm and recover, than not to push him to work with me and get risk of frostbite.



But yesterday was a bad day to be alone because I have to climb many green ice slopes and I have not the partner to make me safety with rope. In any case I keep the concentration and I climbed in Piolet Traction. I saw many old fix rope but there was under ice and had been impossible to use. But at 3:00 p.m. I arrived at C2 at 6250 meters. I spent some minutes and spoken with y friends in BC. Than I started the delicate descent and I have done my best to collect some pieces of old fix rope and put them in the most dangerous part. It will be a good help for our future climb and descent. After that hard day I spent another night in C1 and this morning I came to BC. In the trip we will go directly to C2, sleep there and the day after we will establish our last camp. Camp 3.