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I started as a child to attend and learn
about the mountains. First, walking trails with my family during the summer
holidays, then climbing with my father and the age of 13 I started the first
real climbing on the cliffs near Bergamo, my hometown. In 1985 I attended the
first climbing competition in Bardonecchia and for the next 5 years I competed
at all levels (national and international) in climbing. In 1988 I also joined
the Italian National Climbing Team and from 1992 to 1996 I was the coach.
Since 1992 I have over 40 mountaineering
expeditions including 10 winter expeditions in almost all of the continents.
Some of these adventures have been awarded in Italy, Russia and America. 10
times I got on top of a primary or secondary 8000 meters peak, although
my mountaineering is not only focusing on the collection of the 14 eight
thousand meters peaks. This is the reason why in my recent past there are many
peaks of 7000 and 6000
meters as well as technical ice climbing and mixed
climbing. I like life touring as widely as possible and varied.
Mountaineering however was not and is
not my only passion although it´s my main occupation. I am a passionate
practitioner of skydiving and wingsuit skydive, and also recently became a
private pilot of the commercial helicopter model AS 350 B2. I am Doctor in
Sport Sciences with 110/110 cum laude and author of two books. "Comet on Annapurna" which was published by Corbaccio reprints 7 with
20,000 copies sold and "8000 meters of life” in dual language English /
Italian published by Graphics & Art. I speak 5 languages (English, German,
French, Spanish and some Russian).
I also had the honor of receiving international
recognition as the Fairplay Pierre de Cubertin Trophy in Paris by UNESCO and
the gold medal of Civil Valor by President Ciampi in the Italian region of
Lombardy. In the USA I received the prestigious David Sowles Award American
Alpine Club. All these prestigious awards were given to me for rescuing alone,
without oxygen and in more than 8000 meters on the west face of Lhotse 8516 m in Nepal.
Interrupting my climbing and risking my own life I decided to try to rescue an
injured english climber named Tom Moores. Today Tom is alive and working in the
UK
and continue to practicing climbing |